Northy but Nice

Kia ora!

That's Maori for "be healthy/Hello" in that kind of Shalom means "peace/Hello" kind of way. May sound cheesy but I like the expression probably because it's the one Maori word I can pronounce. [I think I avoided cycling in the Whakarewarewa Thermal Reserve last week just because I couldn't summons up the courage to ask someone how to get there!]

Anyway so I'm here in Wellington chez Beverly Paris whose family lives in the wonderfully named neighbourhood of Haitatai (I think that's it – see what I mean) and who are being great hosts to me for my one non-youth hostel night in New Zealand. My short stay in Wellington (I leave tomorrow afternoon) marks the end of my trip on the North Island. Tomorrow I fly by (12-seater-you-get-to-see-the-pilot-eat-his-lunch-plane) to Picton to start my South Island traverse but that is for next weeks e-mail...

So where have I been since we last "spoke"? (Thanx all those who wrote back btw. If I haven't already replied I hope too soon) My basic itinerary so far has been as follows:

I arrived in Auckland on Wed afternoon totally confused because I had just traveled and put my clock forward and traveled and put my clock forward for what seemed like 24 hours or maybe it was less and hadn't really slept. Who knows? Was rather out of it so after dumping stuff off I wandered around town a bit - visited the shul in vein hope of getting the kosher kiwi directory but having just missed office hours by half an hour I trundled back to my youth hostel. This wasn't bad despite bunk beds that might as well have had an escalator going up they were so high. Collapsed into bed and then went insomniac later so chatted to fellow roomies (1 Israeli and 1 English - for this I travel thousands of miles?) and then went to an Internet café at 11:30pm and surfed.

I left Auckland early the next day and by all accounts this was not a too short amount of time to have spent there. Was picked up by the Magic bus - no this isn't a bus with wings or any other Chitty Chitty Bang Bang impersonator but rather the name of the travelers' network I am using. Basically I've bought a pass, which takes me a certain route around the country within a minimum number of days. I can choose to stay with the same bus or to stay longer in one place or go off the beaten track and pick up the next bus at a later stage. Pretty cool all in all, both for coping with the no traveling on Shabbat thing and just general maintaining my own independence and flexibility. I know I wont be able to go everywhere in the time that I'm here - for example I'll miss the north of the Northern Island - Kare Kare and Corimandel beaches and Bay of Islands but hey got to leave something for next visit!

My fellow passengers are a mix of 20-30's from all over the world with a few older still travelers. Drivers are quite funky mixing the role of driver with tour guide, logistics and personnel manager and general motivator. Also up to now (sample size 3) they have all seemed to be quite idiosyncratic about their music and sounds on the bus, wanting to ensure we travel with a good soundtrack. Any of you know me well you'll know I totally appreciate the effort. [BTW Sharon Wagner this is your job should you ever choose to relocate...]

Anyway we drove out of Auckland stopping for an overview from Mount Eden and then passed through several towns on our way down to the Waitomo caves. Won't bore you with the details except to say that was honoured to pass through the town of Te Awamutu - birthplace of Neil Finn, lead singer of the sadly disbanded Crowded House. In honour of this wonderful group I am dedicating this weeks installment to their discography and have hidden 13 of their song and/or album titles within the letter. First person who writes back with the full list will be guaranteed a Kiwi souvenir*.

*Please allow 128 days for delivery. The competition organizer reserves the right to interpret the word souvenir entirely as they wish. In the case of a tie, competitors will buy the competition organizer a welcome home present instead.

Anyway so onto the Waitomo caves. These were Stallegmites and Stallegtite caves with added glowworms. Floating on a boat in an underground cave lit only with insects is pretty awesome. All of this was hidden away under rolls and rolls of beautiful New Zealand countryside. This is just the beginning I am getting so much from the many shades of green and stunning tall trees that surround us all the time.

From here we're onto Rotorua the place with the smell, spas and bubbly mud. This is an area of very high thermal activity, so much so that all the water in the area is heated by thermal activity. It is not uncommon to see steam rising from geisers (pronounced gayzers - geezers are old men) near house and of course to smell the rotten egg smell of sulphur.

Despite my legendary memory for wedding dates and what you were doing this time last year, geology and history seem to have rather less tenacity for the Gold cerebrum. Thus I will not attempt to accurately explain the science and legends behind the amazing wonders I am seeing but that's ok because there are plenty of great guidebooks who do a much better job than I could ever do. I could try and sum it up though and say that in New Zealand most of the natural wonders come down to volcanoes and major (its not my) fault lines and most of the history is either due to Maori legends or 19th century European explorers getting lost or having accidents or both. Read the books and you decide...

Our first evening in Rotorua was spent attending a Maori hangi. This consisted of a warrior dance ("Haka" a la the All Blacks but no rugby after) and welcome ceremony followed a festive meal cooked in a special under earth oven. This all took place in a mock Maori village, which looked a bit like the Temple of Low Men but was very impressive all the same. I particular liked the demonstration of all their weapons and instruments used to develop hand-eye coordination for use of weapons. There were sticks and batons and all sorts and the women used these great ball and string things to do a dance so for me the whole thing was really a wedding shtick trade show! On return to the town I went with Katherine from Melbourne, a friend from the bus to a bar at one of the louder youth hostels. Without going into details here, suffice to say this experience did much to confirm that the locals of today are developing customs that are really no less bizarre than those of their ancestors.

This discovery continued the next day when I decided to attend a local attraction called the Agrodome. Teaming up with Mali of the Emek Refaim area and Shalem Center - this week's "Who do you know? Game" prize goes to Kinneret, Stephanie and Sam! - we made our way down to this attraction primarily known for its sheep shearing shows. Now some of you may have the impression that the weirdest thing New Zealanders do is use sheep for various recreational activities however it would seem today that this generation of Kiwis have been smoking something stronger and have come up with far more bizarre activities to while away the time. Mali and I chose to do the "Zorb"! How can I explain? Ehm? Well we both sat in a huge plastic ball partially filled with water, which was then pushed down a hill! My best way of explaining what it was like is to say wash-cycle! Whatever – absolutely hysterical! I guess you'll just have to wait for the pics to really see what I mean.

From there we did actually go and see the sheep show, but nothing could seem that bizarre after our Zorb experience. On the shuttle bus we had met up with Ron from Northern Ireland (met briefly the night before) who had been working in Oz and was just making his way home. Nice guy and among other things had some v interesting conversations with him discussing what it was like living with bombs near your house and how you just get on with normal life as much as you can and how home is home and you cant just move away. Understandably there aren't that many people doing the traveler circuit who can empathise with that.

It's funny. I had worried on the first night when the people I had got to know that day were leaving that I wouldn't find anyone to do stuff with the next day. When I woke up and started chatting to Mali it went to show (and has continued to since) how these things just fall at your feet in the travelers world. It's so easy to pick up with people, as you all want to do the same type of things. You can have great chats with people about what to do and how without even knowing their names. You can get away with asking first names but age and surnames are almost taboo! Plus there's this wonderful phenomenon of seeing people you met in one place a few days later somewhere else and its like you've bumped into old friends. Its kind of like we're all here together alone.

Anyway our day was by no means all deep discussion and we finished off wacky New Zealand country day with a couple of rides on the "Luge". These are sled like vehicles on wheels that are ridden down concrete tracks Nigel-Mansell-style down a hill. It was terrific fun and totally scary. Returning from the luge tracks in a gondaler looking out onto the distant sun - a perfect end to my first full day in New Zealand.

Got back and lit candles and had my Shabbat supper of smoked salmon and avocado sandwiches (encountering Gil and Raanan in the kitchen who were amused to hear they'd just missed kiddush) Had a nice low key day the next day taking walks round the Lake Rotorua and attending the Polynesian Spa. Brought Shabbat out the old-fashioned way - judging by when three stars appeared I think I brought it in way too early – and then got ready for my move the next morning.

Everyone promised me rain in New Zealand as apparently this season has been rather diabolical and British-summer-like but since coming from the all sunny Singapore it had remained all sunny here too. Maybe you really can take the weather with you. Anyway up until Sunday morning the weather had really been beautiful and so the sulphur smell that everybody had warned me about was really not that bad. Sat night it started to rain and the smell changed! Nevermind I was on my way out and the rain it was good for viewing the Wai-O-Tapu Thermal Wonderland. Amazing place, timed exploding geisers, lots of bubbling mud and strange coloured lakes. Then due to bad weather we ended up playing a kind of laserquest game (the girls won) instead of a mad rope dare thing. Then we went onto the quite impressive Huka falls of the Watekei river which runs from Lake Taupo up to Auckland. Played a quick game of Pooh Sticks (Kiwi rules) and then went into Taupo to find out that weather still wasn't ok for sky diving. Shame although not the end of the world (although this is supposed to be the cheapest and highest place to do it but whatever...) We then had 2 hours to walk around town instead (strangely reminiscent of Friday mornings at BA summer camp) by which time the weather had cleared up to reveal the true splendour of Lake Taupo.

Onto our stop for the night - Turangi, a rather non descript trouting destination. Best located for going to the Tongariro Crossing. This is the most famous one day walk in New Zealand and with an incredible reputation for being grueling in parts but rewarding in most others with all the wonders that New Zealand can bring I decided to stay and attempt this famous tramp (that's Kiwi for trek I wasn't hitching a lift or hanging out with untoward smelly homeless men). Because the altitude is high, warm clothing (layers) are essential. How happy was I that I'd bought my new fleece? How p*&^ed off was I when I realized I'd left it in the last hostel in Rotorua? Nevermind it was picked up by the next day's Magic bus driver leaving me, my Disney sweatshirt and cagoul to brave the altitudes of the crossing. Actually felt like a proper traveler in the morning as to attach my water pipe thingy to my rucksack I had to use my pen-knife and duck tape - hurrah!

Please note that I am not exaggerating the extremity of this hike. Completed successfully by thousands of people each year the organizers who shuttle us in still take the precaution of taking everybody's number of next of kin, just in case they need to know where to ship the body! This fact should be noted for later but do not worry unnecessarily. The fact that I am sending this message should be the ultimate spoiler to any ominous thoughts!

Well what can I say? Well the look of the whole day was definitely Middle Earth. I just felt like I'd been through one of those hobbit battles by the end! Beginning with a mild gradient with gentle waterfalls running beside, it soon changed into volcanic rock (with foliage) and a gradient that ventolin was invented for. This lasted an hour and then onto the southern yellow crater (1600 ft alt I think?). After that, more climbing, another 200 ft, to the stunning red (more crimson actually) crater. It seems I was rewarded for my slower pace as I discovered later that quicker walkers had not seen the red crater as it was still surrounded by mist.

On and off during the day I found myself walking with a group of parent age types from Christchurch who attempt a different tramp every year. In between my wheezes and embarrassment that these 55 or so olds were doing as well as me we chatted and it came out where I was from (hence the "here's Israel" comment I got every time I caught up with them or vice versa). In case any of you were worrying that New Zealanders were too politically in touch with the Middle East I can put your minds at rest. One guy asked me if this hike was anything like Mount Sinai. When I said I didn't know, as I hadn't been there because it wasn't part of Israel anymore, he seemed vaguely surprised. He later asked me about military service and conscription. He understood the three year thing but still asked whether those who were conscripted actually saw active service. Oh to have the luxury of not knowing about these things.

Back to the crossing: Just past the red crater one last climb signaled the top which was rather awe-inspiring. Through the clearing mist at that altitude I felt something so strong one could almost feel there goes G-d. Perhaps a bit OTT but its not often you get that close, so its only natural to get a bit overwhelmed!

After that it was all down hill (NB in this case this does not mean all easy, ok maybe easier). The rock face coming down was a bit tricky but the view was amazing as we went from moon like craters to literally emerald coloured thermal lakes. Stunning, beautiful, smelly - I left the Christchurch delegation to have a lunch stop and marched on.

I had always declared that my aim of visiting New Zealand was to see the blues and the greens. Far from disappointed I am just amazed by all the other colours I have seen as well. Rocks on the way up and down were covered with a down of tiny star red flowers and big green and yellow leafy plants together with lavender coloured and daisy like plants. We passed another thermal spring on the way down and the rocks in the water were blue and purple and green – literally multi-coloured. There was a haze of blue over the hills and the lakes as viewed from the top of the pass, which made me think I was wearing blue tinted glasses. My words can't do all of this justice but unfortunately my camera can't either as the battery run just as I got to the red crater. Luckily Peter and Myra of Victoria, Australia volunteered to send me copies of theirs (no I hadn't been talking to them that's just how nice people can be) so Mum and Dad if you get an envelope addressed to me in the next month or so, yes you can open it to check for photos!

On the way down, the path became greener and greener and alpine in nature. Stopping at a Department of Conservation hut (could have been Heidi's) two hours before the end of the trail I met up with Jill and Karen my Canadian roommates from the hostel in Turangi. Hailing from Newfoundland (pronounce that as if someone has wired your jaws together) Jill actually works as a National Park Warden somewhere "in the boonies" in Canada. While she was comparing notes with the Warden at the hut, Karen the physiotherapist was telling me how to deal with sudden cramps I was getting in my thighs. Oh well, its all good!

As well as the view the sounds were amazing too. When the wind wasn't howling, the silence was perfect. Of course towards the end my own howling of better be home soon threatened that silence somewhat...

Last two hours was just as beautiful and the last 45mins to hour was even more surprising as it was through a forest complete with stream (don't drink the water or risk nightmare stomachs for months) I probably would have enjoyed it more if I hadn't felt by the end that I had nails in my feet, or more specifically my toes but like all these things it was worth it.

So I actually finished the track (with breaks) in just over 7 hours, which isn't bad. That said I missed the 4pm bus but that was ok because there was one at 5:15 or so. I sat down on the grass, wrote a little but then as sure as I am I fell asleep. I woke up intermittently but wasn't really worried because there were lots of people around and anyway surely they'd check our names off the body bag list and realize if someone was missing, no? 5:20 I wake up and realize something maybe up. I wait a bit more thinking the bus was at 5:30 then I borrow a mobile phone (oh my little orange phone I missed you then) and called up the company - get their ansaphone - great! Then I called the hostel. Eventually it was sorted out, they had left me behind but one of the drivers came to pick me up and we all lived happily ever after. Back at 7 (others back at 5:30) I gratefully took up the offer of a free spa given to all those who participated in the crossing.

So all in all that leads me to this morning and why the whole of my body is aching and then some. Today's travels were thankfully less strenuous making the way down from Turangi via various stops - NZ army museum in Waioru, a chance to jet ski in Flat Hills (Ironic name) and passing through Taihape - gumboot capital of New Zealand amongst other bumpkin towns. Approaching Wellington our driver "Popstar" (self named as his real name is Richard Martin, hence he is Ricky Martin) stopped to perform the Haka for us by Kapiti Island as that's where it was composed, by a Maori chief seeking refuge. Into the harbour and as its said there's nothing like Wellington on a good day and we were fortunate to get a good day. It really is as beautiful as everyone says it is.

Having arrived in Wellington we were given a brief tour by the bus driver including a view from Mount Victoria and then we were dropped off at one of the youth hostels. This was where Beverley very kindly picked me up. This evening I was shown the sites of Wellington by night by my friend Paul Thomas New Zealand historian extrordinaire who also explained to me over a beer in some up and coming trendy area of Wellington a bit about how and why New Zealand has become so more Maori aware in the last twenty years and how trends have changed here in general.

This really was the best tutorial I'd got so far and if I got it right you could say that the European / Maori divide was never as bad as say the Australian White / Aborigine or South African White / Blacks for several reasons. Firstly the Europeans got to New Zealand a bit later than others. Secondly, when they did arrive Maori were recognized to be more organized, more powerful and lighter, and thus a higher level of savage and thirdly there's never been an inter-marriage problem from the Maori side as this just goes to strength their tribes. Most interestingly for me though was Paul's assertion that its just never been in the Kiwi attitude to be too racist. Basically New Zealanders never thought it polite to be racist and have always prided themselves on their race relations (hence protests by some against recent even more "politically correct" moves as being unnecessary). Kiwis are pretty polite people but I will give you a broader view on that next week when I've got to meet more of them.

Wow that was a bit of an intelligent end to this latest installment. I am now well coordinated and have a headache to match my muscle ache so I think I will call it a night. Tune in this time next week when I will present New Zealand the Southern perspective – is it really the Beautiful South? Which island will turn out to be the ultimate temptation island? Is the Fox Glacier really a giant mint? All this and more.....

Lots and lots of love to you all

I know that many of you wrote back to me and told me just to enjoy myself and not think about what's going on in Israel, well I kept part of the bargain. I am enjoying myself but am thinking about you all the time